How do you "harden" your rentals?
Dear Pocketers,
How do you harden / bullet-proof your rentals?
While I've never had anyone utterly trash a rental of mine, I've seen the damage they can do first hand (typically when buying the rental and seeing what the previous occupants did to it). Here are a few of the things I do:
One of my favorites, and easiest to do, is that I "frame" all wire racks, their support rods, towel holders, toilet paper holders, etc. using backer wood that is mounted to studs. If it's very visible, we'll route the edges and paint it like trim. If it's in a closet, it just gets wall color. This way, if the kids hang off the coat racks or someone abuses the towel holders, they may yank the hardware down, but it doesn't leave holes in the wall. It's also much harder to destroy them in the first place. Note the towel holder mounting:
When first buying a property, if it's easily accessible, I'll replace copper with Pex (plastic) plumbing from the get go, even if the copper is OK. I don't have to worry about it freezing and it's not a crime target.
We cage all of our A/C units now using custom fabricated 2 inch square tube, typically mounting them into the wall so the bolts have to be released from inside. I also lock exterior A/C circuit boxes and label the units, cage and circuit box with A/C specific alarm stickers that I had made up.
I will frequently install an inexpensive alarm system (not monitored) which gives me peace of mind between tenants and acts as a selling point when showing the units.
I've doubled up on door stops (to prevent doorknobs from going into walls). While I use the standard springy ones that mount into baseboard still, they tend to be targets for kids and end up missing, so I back these up with the plastic circles that affix to the wall where the handle would hit. (These are also great for just covering a previously made hole where the door knob hit the wall) They're expensive though, so I've started buying large, bulk packages of plastic, foam-backed pads that you set furniture on, and simply using double sided tape behind these. These cost maybe 30 cents apiece where the purpose built ones cost $3 apiece.
If I have to renovate a bathroom, I no longer use the plastic/fiberglass shower inserts. I've seen people put holes into both the tubs and crack the walls of these. For just a couple hundred more I'll have an iron tub installed and we'll tile the shower. It's a lot more attractive and seems to be a lot more durable in the long run.
What tricks have you learned to "harden" your own rentals?
Best,
- Chuck
@George P. I clean all my gutters every fall. With those gutter guards are you never cleaning your gutters again?
Originally posted by @Eddie T.:
@George P. I clean all my gutters every fall. With those gutter guards are you never cleaning your gutters again?
Never.
Not entirely true. Had a gutter with these and it was 60% filled with dirt. Bet it takes a long time for that to happen.
Shorter needle coniferous trees (some pine, tamarac, spruce) still get through.
Originally posted by @Account Closed:
Not entirely true. Had a gutter with these and it was 60% filled with dirt. Bet it takes a long time for that to happen.
Did u have leaf relief? Or some junky plastic ones?
bump and a suggestion
I have a roofer I always use and in the winter i tell him to go and inspect all the roofs (close to 40). he takes notes and lets me know if anything is due for change/repair. More of a "preventative maintenance", but still "hardening" in my book.
No screen doors, no blinds or curtains, no ceiling fans. LED lights that don't need replacement bulbs (great deal on 2 packs of Commercial Electric fixtures at Home Depot), hardwood floors...
Originally posted by @Timothy Cole:
No screen doors, no blinds or curtains, no ceiling fans. LED lights that don't need replacement bulbs (great deal on 2 packs of Commercial Electric fixtures at Home Depot), hardwood floors...
We use to rent with naked windows, but grew tired of tenants trying to hang their own blinds or curtains ... or using a blanket and push-pins. We now hang blinds and curtain rods.
Originally posted by @Roy N.:
Originally posted by @Timothy Cole:No screen doors, no blinds or curtains, no ceiling fans. LED lights that don't need replacement bulbs (great deal on 2 packs of Commercial Electric fixtures at Home Depot), hardwood floors...
We use to rent with naked windows, but grew tired of tenants trying to hang their own blinds or curtains ... or using a blanket and push-pins. We now hang blinds and curtain rods.
I will strongly recommend tension rods to them as a means to avoid paying out of their security.
I agree with not using carpet where possible but in terms of sound insulation in a multi-fan unit, carpet and the sound padding underneath is the best for lessening sound. Any thoughts on this?
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#1 All Forums Contributor
- Real Estate Broker
- Lake Oswego OR Summerlin, NV
@Roy N. or plastic garbage bags ( black ones) and then wondering why they have mold LOL
I use to rent with naked windows but they would put up cartoon sheets with the biggest nails they could find. The sheets would never be replaced with blinds or curtains. So then I started buying the cheapest big box mini blinds I could get. Within one week of move in they would be damaged. So now I spend the extra money and go with the 2" wood look vinyl blinds, every window gets a double curtain rod. I stock up on curtains when they are on sale at the dollar general store or family dollar. It's in my rental agreement that they can hang curtains of their choosing or keep mine up. I get mine back when they hang theirs up and charge if mine are missing on move out. So far it's been working much better.
Tile and wood throughout. Love it.
My wife and I are just getting ready to get started with buy and hold rentals. We were JUST talking about flooring last night. We would personally prefer hard flooring throughout. My wife is particularly sensitive to smells and allergens. We ere thinking hardwood where it pre-existed or made sense and linoleum elsewhere. We like linoleum as a "natural" alternative to vinyl. Maybe tile in baths and kitchens? (I love the idea back at the beginning of this thread about using iron tubs and tile enclosures instead of "cheap" fiberglass inserts!)
We were wondering between ourselves if there would possibly be any market resistance to not having carpet in bedrooms, especially up north where the floors could get cold in the winter. Any feedback on that?
Each market is unique. I would talk to PMs and/or go to open houses to get a feel for yours.
1) porcelain tile throughout whole house
2) replace all valves on water supply lines with quarter turn ball valves
3) replace bath mixer with single handle faucet
4) use landlord locks
5) place scrap vinyl flooring in cabinets under sink traps to catch water if there is a leak
6) I like tankless water heaters. Low maintenance and can last 20 +years. They just need to be flushed with vinegar every year.
7)when replacing roof, use architectural shingles. They last longer and more durable.
8) use screw in shower curtain
Any recommendations on durable self closing elongated toilet seats?
Wow, I gotta say it sounds like some of these rentals are in Fallujah!
Fortunate for being across the street from Town Hall and Police/Fire department.
When we frame out we always frame in supports for the kitchen cabinets, closet shelving and bathroom fixtures.
My hat is off to you guys- I could not handle being worried about the A/C units and pipes being stolen!
Originally posted by @George P.:
not sure if i wrote about this, but if you have trees on the property, it's worth installing these gutter guards....
they can be cut with snips and are super awesome. screw them in with stainless steel screws and never have clogs again.
and as always, use a commercial downspouts... 4x3 and not the residential 2x3!
Please post the brand and model of gutter guards. There was no picture in this post.
Originally posted by @Malik R.:
Originally posted by @George P.:not sure if i wrote about this, but if you have trees on the property, it's worth installing these gutter guards....
they can be cut with snips and are super awesome. screw them in with stainless steel screws and never have clogs again.
and as always, use a commercial downspouts... 4x3 and not the residential 2x3!
Please post the brand and model of gutter guards. There was no picture in this post.
Look up leaf relief. They might not have it in California
i replace all two prong ungrounded outlets with 3 prong white GFCI outlets. They are allowed by code and look so much better and are safer. I buy them on eBay for around $5-7 each instead of $12-15 or more at the big box stores.
I replace all faucet/toilet lines with new stainless braided lines regardless if they are already stainless. I replace shower cartridges too.
I replace water heaters that are 10+ years old when I buy a property because I don't have what if any maintenance has been done and so by replacing them, I can start a fresh maintenance schedule. I flush them once a year and replace the elements and anode rods every 5 years. I buy the self cleaning heaters too, not much more cost.
Originally posted by @Samantha Klein:
i replace all two prong ungrounded outlets with 3 prong white GFCI outlets. They are allowed by code and look so much better and are safer. I buy them on eBay for around $5-7 each instead of $12-15 or more at the big box stores.
I replace all faucet/toilet lines with new stainless braided lines regardless if they are already stainless. I replace shower cartridges too.
I replace water heaters that are 10+ years old when I buy a property because I don't have what if any maintenance has been done and so by replacing them, I can start a fresh maintenance schedule. I flush them once a year and replace the elements and anode rods every 5 years. I buy the self cleaning heaters too, not much more cost.
Originally posted by @Johann Jells:
Originally posted by @Samantha Klein:i replace all two prong ungrounded outlets with 3 prong white GFCI outlets. They are allowed by code and look so much better and are safer. I buy them on eBay for around $5-7 each instead of $12-15 or more at the big box stores.
Sorry, but that's a ridiculous and unnecessary expense. Code does not require it anywhere but by water for a good reason. Code now requires AFCI breakers, and you'd be better off putting your money there and using $0.60 3 prong receptacles, assuming you actually have a ground wire or BX cable housing. Or if GFCI is your thing, it would still be cheaper putting in GFCI breakers than replacing every receptacle.
@Johann Jells I didn't say it was required, just something that is allowed. I have an electrician change the outlets and switches just so I can't be held liable later if something happens however the receptacles need to be changed anyway so I'd be paying an electrician more time to change the breaker and the outlets when I can just change the outlets and I personally like the GFCI outlets over regular ones. To each his own though. The cost would likely be the same or more to change both. These are systems without a ground wire. I don't use GFCI outlets except bathrooms/kitchens if the system has a ground wire.